Soccer in heels and cultural differences

Bilbao infobox collage

When I told my friends I was going to Spain, they expected Barcelona or Madrid. But when I told them Bilbao, they did not seem to understand why. Besides the business program, I think I already knew I wanted to stay away from the touristy areas. After all, I do go to school in Moscow, Idaho; another town that isn’t well-known.

When I told my friends I would be going to school in Moscow, Idaho, they said, “East Coast? You’ll be so far away!” Sad, but true. Even my friends in Oregon thought Idaho was on the East Coast, and Oregon shares a border with Idaho!

I hesitate to tell Spaniards I go to school in Idaho, but not for lack of school pride. If the West Coast doesn’t know where Idaho is, why would Spaniards?! But the Basques do know. Is the American education system failing? Maybe. Or is it their Basque pride? Definitely (there is a strong Basque presence in Idaho, but I’ll save that for another post).

Flag of the autonomous region of the Basque Co...

Image via Wikipedia

Long story short, Basque people are prideful of their culture.

When I’m on the Metro, or just walking around, I try to think of what I would tell people about Bilbao: what it’s like and how the people are. I’m starting to forget what is different from America because I am starting to learn to live like a Basque.

As much as I think I fit in, I don’tSide Story: While dressed up for Carnival, locals could still tell we were Americans! But how? We were in full costume. There must be something about how we carry ourselves.

But anyway, here are some of the characteristics I still notice:

Social Gatherings: Spaniards live life to the fullest to say the least. They embrace relationships with their family and friends and seem to always have time to get together for lunch or pintxos. They take long siesta hours during the day from anywhere from 1:30-5 p.m. (not exactly sure of the hours) and then go back to work until about 7 or 8 p.m. People never seem to be in a rush as they slowly walk through town with each others’ arms intertwined. Most nights, the children are out running around after I am already in bed around 11 p.m.

Fitness/Health: Everything is very natural in Spain. Spanish media doesn’t negatively influence body images.

My first impression was they weren’t an entirely healthy culture because their exercise consisted solely of walking, which they do a lot of. I see gyms, but it’s not as common as in America.

My first fruit purchase was strawberries and oranges. They went bad after a few days and I found myself complaining. But then I remembered I used to complain that everything in America was not local or it is genetically modified to stay “fresh” longer.

Elderly: The amount of elderly couples walking around never ceases to amaze me. Sometimes I think Algorta (my neighborhood) has a retirement center around. Nope, they are just very strong and independent people for how old they are. It’s hard to say why because we grew up two entirely different lives, but not because we are from two different countries. As much as I would like to think I will be that strong when I’m older, I doubt it will happen after the amount of stress I put on my body with soccer for the last 14 years.

Shopping: Americans can get all of their groceries and household items at Wal-Mart and be done for the day. Spain is just the opposite. There are butcher shops for meat and seafood, fruit shops, bakeries and small grocery stores. If your food stock is empty at home, you must hit many stores to fill it back up. Luckily there are many on each corner so you won’t have to travel far.

Cafes: Cafes are also everywhere. Every morning before school, I get a Spanish tortilla. In the cafe near my apartment, it costs 1 E. Around the corner, it costs 1.50 E. Across the street from school, it costs 1.60 E. And by the Metro, it costs 2 E. I have been to a new cafe everyday to check the prices. For the most part, they all taste the same. But yes, it seems like every other store is a cafe.

Manners: Mannerisms are very different from in America. While Americans (or at least the USAC students) want to say “thank you,” “sorry,” or “excuse me” any time we speak to someone, locals just look at us weird (if they even look at us). They just don’t take the time to say those things in Spain. I guess it’s just implied.

As I mentioned earlier, people walk very slow here. Many love to window shop as well. I have yet to give up my American walking speed just yet (it’s still cold!) and find myself almost plowing people over on accident. So if they aren’t walking slow enough, they will randomly stop to window shop. Or there are the people who are having a smoke break outside the cafes, but take up the entire sidewalk. I don’t complain, but I find myself just physically pushing them out of my way. They don’t get upset, it’s just common.

Even the dogs are well-behaved. It’s almost something you see out of a scary movie like they are hypnotized are something. I love dogs, and they are everywhere here. My first instinct is to pet it because, you know, usually dogs seem excited to see people, right? In Spain, it’s like they are another human. When their owners go inside, they know when to stop and not go in.

In the end: I was walking to work in heels the other day when these two little boys were running around with the soccer ball. They were running straight into me so (in my heels), I started playing with them. I wasn’t sure how they would take it, but they seemed to be smiling. I didn’t have to speak the Basque language to have fun with them. Having fun and soccer are both universal activities.

I cannot say that these characteristics are tied to the Basque Country only, but either way, the Basque pride has taught be to prideful about my own characteristics. I shouldn’t be trying to act like a Basque when I’m American, but I can pretend every once in a while.

Nearly Striking Out

“Don’t let fear of striking out get in your way.” ­­­­­­-Babe Ruth

After my second week in Bilbao, I realized I lost sight of the initial reason to which I wanted to come to Spain: to immerse myself in another culture. I wanted to experience culture shock. I wanted something new and different. That is why we travel, right?

But I did not know what it was I wanted to experience. I wanted succulent Spanish cuisine, fresh air, foreign friends, and artistic views among many other experiences I was not sure of. But each of those are available to me in the States. And from one first-world country to another, I really did not expect a drastic difference. I knew portion sizes would be smaller, I knew clothing driers would be nonexistent, and I knew coffee or food para llevar (to go) was not an option. I could live with that.

My first hour in Bilbao was euphoric. This red abstract bridge overhang was waiting for us as the bus crossed the river into the city. The Guggenheim Museum, one of Bilbao’s famous attributes, was waiting for us on the other side of the river. It seemed strategically placed at the entrance of Bilbao for all the tourists coming from the airport.

I have never lived in a big city, but always dreamt of being a city girl walking everywhere I go, if possible in heals and coffee in hand (but I doubt I could manage heels and coffee at the same time). The bus ride continued through the city. All we could see was buildings’ old elegant architecture that has most likely been restored after hundreds of years. It is too flawless not to have been restored. This area, Moyua, reminds me of the Upper West Side in New York City. It reminds others of a mini-Madrid. Whichever city it actually resembles, it was electrifying me into a fantasy world.

It was my first time hearing Spanish as a native language. I overheard so many conversations (I couldn’t understand any of it though!) and it pushed me deeper in this dream.

The city thrill wore off with the Metro, however. I’ve taken the Bart in San Francisco and the Subway in New York City before, but I had never taken it during a rush hour as I do every morning in Getxo and Bilbao. During a busy ride, I can smell every smoker’s breath and every body’s odor because we are so close to each other.

Getxo and Bilbao have odors attached to them. As you stroll past different shops, they each have their own scent. It’s mainly a food I do not recognize unless it is a fish. If a store doesn’t have a scent, you smell smoke. Spaniards smoke like chimneys. I am curious to how much tobacco goes through the country on a given day. There is not the same health concerns surrounding cigarettes here as in the States. Spaniards smoke inside their homes (such as my roommates), and they will smoke in front of their newborns. They smoke so much that I am starting to differentiate the different cigarette smells. If it were not for the somewhat recent law that outlawed smoking inside public facilities, I think Spaniards would have a cigarette glued to their lip.

I don’t like smoke. That is strike 1, Bilbao.

When I first arrived at my apartment, I was sadly eager to lie in my bed and check in with friends and family back home (i.e. check Facebook and Twitter). I brought 2 outlet converters and a power strip. I proceeded to plug the power strip into the converter, and the converter into the wall. The outlet did not agree with me and reacted with a loud firework-like sound, some smoke and a few sparks. The lights went out as well as the electricity in the entire building. There wasn’t Wi-Fi to check my social media sites anyway.

After the Jan. 13 firework show, 24 hours of traveling, and a battle against hunger, I attempted to order my first Spanish meal. Little did I know, Spain didn’t condone vegetarian food until sometime in the past 50 years or so and it has yet to catch on as it has in the States. I resorted to the grocery store next so I could make food for myself. I get home to find out my apartment doesn’t have kitchen appliances. My roommate said it is because “electricity is too expensive.”

I cannot say I am truly experiencing culture shock in Spain. I am purely disillusioned. I feel more frustrated than shocked because everything I am “shocked” about I can compare to the US. Both countries have Wi-Fi, but I cannot connect in Spain because it will only connect to one computer at a time. I was fortunate to get a kitchen in Spain, but unfortunate to get a kitchen without utensils. My cold room came with a heater, but also with roommates telling me I couldn’t use it because it was too expensive. Spain has everything that America has, but I just can’t use the utilities.

I need my residential utilities. That is strike 2, Bilbao.

After strike 2, I sat back and realized that I’m not inhaling Spain for Spain. I was complaining about the un-American features that Spain carried. No, I didn’t like getting lost in trails of smoke, or the fishy smells. I didn’t like that even though I didn’t eat meat, I still tasted fish in the vegetarian food.

I forgot about the euphoria I experienced in my first hour of Bilbao when I did see the artistic views of Bilbao and I when I overheard people on the streets speaking such a native language. I need to overcome these American frustrations so Spain doesn’t get a strike 3.